Join Date Oct Location iowa Posts 6, I left the steering the way I had it. So what is right here? Thanks Brett, I appreciate that. Location on the floor pan was dependent on the desired front weight.

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Probably because they are stiffer. Keep splitting the weight high and low on the seat as well.

2018 Coyote XP Kart Chassis

There’s been a lot of advancements since then! Put the weight lower. Struggling with Coyote XP! From that point, start adding lead 2 5lb pucks at a time.

Here is what I would suggest for a process. We typically had some on the xo mounting bracket for the steering shaft and some on the floor pan.

The time now is I realize I should never have to go to full lock while racing, but still it seems to me that the steering shouldn’t even be capable of doing this if it’s set up right. So what is right here? All times are GMT Another thing to play with; tread widths front and rear. But on my kart the outside wheel barely turns in when turning the steering wheel.

What happens in the front will affect the back, and vice versa. I’m having a hard time convincing myself that’s the way it should work. Clyote will do that with Ackerman steering. Being a little bit scientific about it will help in the end even if it takes a lot of time up front.


Basically, I’m an idiot ocyote for guidance! I still need a little more chassis tweaking to suit my style, but at least I’m in the window now. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the camber a little bit to really get the weight percentages dialed in.

As long as you are with in 5 lbs difference in weight between the LF and the RF while keeping the percentages as close to 42F 50L 50X as possible the kart should drive a lot better.

I don’t like mounting weights on the frame rail tabs or by adding coylte rail weight clamps. I don’t mean to sound argumentative about it, but again that doesn’t seem right to me.

Bob’s 4 Cycle List of Sponsors. Scale it with out any additional weight. Originally Posted by 01ron. The other problem is I’m a vintage kart guy and this is my first effort in running a chassis with caster and camber adjustments and I have no idea what to do with those and what effect it will have with changes. For me, playing with tread widths, as long as cross and left percentages were right, could solve push and loose problems.


Jason – after watching you run this weekend, ckyote advice goes to the very top of my list. Narrow the front for push, widen the front for loose.

I understand ackerman and how it works, but this seems like an extreme example. When you have 50 lbs of lead to install, we put most on the seat but mid mode, up instead of as high as you can mount it.

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If you see the nose weight is already where it needs to be, then keep stacking the weight on the seat if you can. I can keep up with the field with no problem.

Strip all the lead off the kart. A cp from Coyote I don’t know his name told me that the tie rods want to be in the rear-most holes on the spindles.

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